For a true bush experience in Gauteng, make your way to Dinokeng Game Reserve. It’s also an ideal opportunity to test equipment in a real-world setting before a major expedition. And unfenced Kyleu Bush Camp offers a real wild feel. By Henk Bogaards

Last year I headed to Dinokeng Game Reserve to experience Kyleu Bush Camp, a favourite destination for those wanting a true bush experience close to Gauteng. I’d heard and seen great things about Dinokeng and Kyleu was on my bucket list. So when I found myself alone for a weekend, I took the opportunity to test it out.

What makes Dinokeng unique

Dinokeng Game Reserve is a one-of-a-kind conservation project located roughly 50km north of Pretoria. It is a massive 21,000ha conservation area that’s pretty remarkable because it’s a Big Five reserve sitting right on the doorstep of Gauteng’s big cities. Besides being the only large-game reserve in the province, it is one of the few in the world that lies within the borders of a major metropolitan area.

Even more fascinating is that it isn’t just one big government park; it’s a huge patchwork of over 170 private properties. It was created when individual owners agreed to take down their fences to let wildlife roam freely. It’s essentially a giant experiment in public-private partnership that turned former farmland into a thriving wild ecosystem.

Kyleu Bush Camp is divided into fenced and unfenced campsites; I’d chosen one of the unfenced sites to get the full experience. I was really impressed with my campsite: a large open clearing in the bushveld. The campsites are secluded from each other and there’s a good chance you won’t see your neighbour over the weekend. If you want an even wilder experience, you can book one of the campsites with no facilities. It’s your chance to test how self-sufficient you are!

What makes Kyleu ideal for a weekend getaway is that it is around a two-hour drive from Johannesburg. This means you can arrive late on a Friday afternoon and still have enough time to set up camp and go for a short afternoon game drive. In fact, it was so close to home that I booked three nights, only leaving early Monday morning and still getting to work by 08:00. It also helps that the gates to Dinokeng are open 24 hours.

What overlanders can expect at Kyleu

Overlanders will find that Kyleu balances ruggedness with essential comforts:

• Arrival: The short gravel road that leads to camp is in good condition. Check-in is easy and staff will give you an overview of the reserve, explaining how to get to different parts. You can buy ice and firewood.

• Facilities: Each campsite has a movable braai, private ablutions and a scullery equipped with gas geysers for hot water. There is no power, so you need to provide your own, although the ablutions have solar lights. The shower offers a direct view of the bush, so you never feel closed off from the environment.

• What to take: Although the camp is well laid out, you should bring a gazebo for extra shade and shelter during the day.

• Safety first: Because Kyleu is unfenced, you must treat wildlife with respect and keep your distance. Never feed the wildlife, as this creates “problem animals” that pose a danger to future campers.

A destination for dry runs

Dinokeng is the ideal location to test your skills and gear in a true bush setting, all while having the comfort of knowing you’re close to home. During this trip, I used the opportunity to field-test a custom, lightweight trailer I designed specifically for those without an EB licence (registered at 750kg). My goal was to see how quickly it could be set up and if it would be sufficient for a solo weekend getaway.

The experience proved to be a masterclass in packing efficiency; like many shakedown trips, it revealed that I was still carrying far too many unnecessary items. I’d also recommend Dinokeng as the perfect environment to stress-test 100/200Ah lithium battery systems and kitchen functionality. Or use the chance to refine skills like bush cooking – I took my time perfecting a potjie-style butter chicken over an open fire.

Ultimately, the weekend reinforced the ‘less is more’ philosophy, as I didn’t use half of what I’d brought. One lifesaver, however, was an additional battery pack, which proved invaluable for charging electronics and topping up the trailer’s battery during an overcast day.

Game viewing and watching a game

After setting up camp and taking a game drive to a nearby waterhole, I relaxed by the fire and enjoyed the sunset. The weekend was off to a good start.

The next day I rose in a leisurely fashion – I was there to relax from the fast pace of the city, after all. After some rusks and coffee, I headed out for an early morning drive. I didn’t have a fixed plan, so I switched on Tracks4Africa maps on my GPS and simply followed the routes that looked interesting. Since it was an overcast day, game was a bit scarce, but I still found the usual wildebeest, impala, warthog and zebra. Sometimes, it’s not about seeing everything, but rather just enjoying being out in nature.

I returned to camp in the early afternoon to watch a different type of springbok – the rugby! South Africa was playing against the All Blacks. The reception wasn’t the fastest since I was streaming the game on my phone, but I was able to follow the game. Although I did not have any of the Big Five walking through my camp, I did have a jackal visiting from time to time, as well as some wildebeest grazing nearby in the mornings. Take care not to leave food out overnight.

Dinokeng’s eastern section

My plan for Sunday was to explore the eastern part of the reserve.  This part of the reserve is much more open, reminiscent of the savannah, and I saw red hartebeest, giraffe and plenty of zebra. This area also contains routes previously the preserve of high-clearance vehicles. While they are being converted for all vehicle types, I still encountered sections where high clearance was definitely required.

A highlight of the eastern section is the Veldjierondom picnic spot, where you can grab a bite at the kiosk or use the braai facilities. A viewing platform offers a fantastic panorama of the bush. On your way out, you can stop at Arlington Brewery to enjoy a local craft beer or slushy.

On my last evening, I went in search of the hyena den that Kyleu staff had mentioned. Although the signs of the hyena were there, the animals themselves were not – perhaps it was just the wrong time of day. A great kudu sighting made up for it.

After packing up what I could and enjoying a juicy steak, I turned in early to ensure a quick departure the next morning. It had been another great day out and about in Dinokeng.

Good to know

Dinokeng is strictly cashless, so you should handle your payments online or by card at the gate.

Daily conservation fee:

• South African residents: R75 per adult, R50 per child per day (max R300 per person for stays up to a week)
• International visitors: R150 per adult, R100 per child per day.

To explore the 140km of self-drive tracks in your own car, get a self-drive permit (R250).

About the overlander

Henk Bogaards is passionate about exploring rugged roads around South Africa. On his YouTube channel, 4wheelingsa, he shares his experiences of wild places, 4×4 routes and rig modifications.

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