The remote wilderness of Khutse Game Reserve is little developed – the campsites are off-grid and the roads strictly 4×4. Who better to explore this part of the Kalahari with than the Landcruiser Club Botswana? By Aslam Mxolisi Tawana (Black Boy Adventures)

The Kgalagadi’s sandy tracks and little-travelled roads are not unfamiliar to me. When I worked as Director of Farmer Support for the Northern Cape, I did a lot of gravel travel from my base in Kimberley. Because I had to reach farmers and communities in deep rural areas, desert driving was part of the job. But as Black Boy Adventures, I had never undertaken a transborder Kalahari adventure. So when I was invited to join the Landcruiser Club Botswana (LCB) for a trip to Khutse Game Reserve and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), I couldn’t say no.

Botswana bound

It was a late summer afternoon when I set off from Kimberley, with Musa Senate Jonathan, the Black Boy Adventures cameraman, in the passenger seat. We had some 400km to cover to reach the Ramatlabama Border Post, but we were in no hurry. We’d been told the border post closed at midnight, so we took an easy drive, stopping to have dinner. So imagine our surprise when we drove up to the border at 22:25 to find the crossing dark, the gates closed. We decided to sommer set up camp a few yards from the gates and wait for the morning. Luckily, my rig, Musafir (‘traveller’ in Arabic), is fully equipped, so I simply popped up the rooftop tent.

T4A tip: The Tracks4Africa Traveller’s Atlas shows the opening hours of 127 border posts across 10 Southern African countries. Remember to check the travel times on your route so you will arrive at the border post in good time.

Crossing the border

The next morning, we were the first at the gate when it opened at 06:00. The formalities were straightforward. We had our valid passports and I’d made sure I had the vehicle’s original registration certificate. Although we could pay for the road permit by card, I’d suggest travellers carry cash in case the card machine is not working. (Note that Botswana border posts only accept cash payment in pula.)

Botswana has strict regulations against bringing meat into the country to prevent the spread of foot-and-mouth disease. The border officials checked my fridge, but there was no problem since we didn’t have any fresh produce. First-time visitors to Botswana may find it a bit unusual that both travellers and vehicle have to go through a shallow sanitising bath. This is part of the measurements against disease outbreaks.

Tracks4Africa says: The fresh produce restrictions are against red meat and associated dairy products (foot-and-mouth disease), pork (swine flu), chicken and associated products (avian flu) and the majority of fruit and veg (fruit fly). The Facebook group DriveBots is a good source of up-to-date information on restrictions. As it stands at the moment, you are better off buying everything in Botswana.

On the whole, the border crossing was a breeze and the officials very friendly. In particular, they were fascinated to talk to two black overlanders. I guess we didn’t fit the description of the majority of tourists. But this is why I began Black Boy Adventures: to make overlanding more accessible to a wider variety of people.

Meeting up with the Landcruiser Club Botswana

From the border we drove to Lobatse, where we were meant to rendezvous with the treasurer of the LCB. On our way to the meeting point, we saw a Landcruiser coming from the opposite direction, flashing its lights. Our hosts, Emanuel Thamage and Ruth Khupe, had come to meet us. After freshening up at their house, we pointed our vehicles in the direction of Gaborone. This would be our chance to stock up on supplies – fresh meat – and fill up our vehicles at Engen, which sponsors the LCB with fuel. We would then drive to Khutse in convoy with members of the club.

Situated about 240km from Gaborone, Khutse Game Reserve is ideally located for a breakaway from the hustle and bustle. In the south of the reserve, there are five campsites situated on a loop, each close to a pan. To the north, lies the CKGR with its sprawling grasslands. Since there is no fence between the two protected areas, animals can roam freely.

The most direct route to the Khutse Gate goes via Kudumelapye, but the stretch between Kudumelapye and Salajwe is notoriously corrugated. The LCB expedition leader was towing a mobile fridge and decided to take an alternative route via Maboane. When we left the tar at Maboane village, I felt that the adventure was starting in earnest. We followed a cutline north, travelling some 100km on decent gravel to rejoin the main route at Salajwe. From there it was another 40 minutes or so to the Khutse Gate.

First night in Khutse

The sun was already low by the time all 35 Landcruisers and their occupants had been processed. I was invited to set up at the LCB’s main campsite at Khutse 04. All in all, there are 10 stands spread out between the Khutse I and II pans. All the campsites in Khutse are off-grid – no electricity or running water – so you have to be completely self-sufficient. The facilities are limited to braai areas, pit toilets and bucket showers. 

 

That first night, I fell into easy conversation with LCB members around the campfire. We discussed everything under the sun, but of course overlanding and 4×4 made up a big part. For some members of the club, it was their first experience of rustic camping. But the beauty of the overlanding community is its willingness to share knowledge. I had long chats with Mishingo Jeremia, the secretary-general of the club, and I realised that we hold many values in common.

Deep into the CKGR

There’s no way to describe the feeling of waking up to sunrise in the Botswana bush. You simply have to experience it for yourself. On the cards for the day was a visit to Gugamma (also known as Kukumane), a San settlement some 20km from Khankhe Campsite. As part of the LCB’s trip to Khutse, the club wanted to distribute groceries, clothing and sanitary pads. Thanks to their Landcruisers, LCB members can carry out social responsibility in remote parts – one of the club’s goals.

Before setting off, I proposed that we decrease our tyre pressure to deal with the thick sand. My Indeflate system was pressed into duty and I helped others deflate their tyres. This made for a more comfortable drive through the thick sand.

Crossing the cutline between Khutse and CKGR was a thrilling moment and we had to stop for pictures. Another meaningful stop was next to a burnt-out vehicle, a reminder that you should pull over every so often to check your rig. Grasses growing on the middelmannetjie of the track can get caught under the vehicle. When heat from the exhaust causes the trapped grass to catch fire, the consequences are serious.

On our way to Gugamma, we picked up one of the villagers who told us he’d been walking for three days – across that untamed wilderness! I wondered what he did at night; apparently, he found a tree to sleep in. When we arrived at the village, we discovered that they were without water. All the overlanders contributed water from their stores. It really humbles you when you realise how people live with next to nothing. 

The Kalahari’s quiet

A visit to the Kalahari wouldn’t be complete without game viewing. In the late afternoon, we drove to Molose Pans. We didn’t have long to wait before a herd of elephants approached the pan and thereafter a giraffe. As the animals drank from the pan, we got photos, but all too soon it was time to return to camp. Driving at night is strictly prohibited.

Chilling out at camp after a long drive is part and parcel of overlanding. Over the course of the weekend we settled into a relaxing rhythm: taking drives and then returning to camp to unwind. Being close to pans, the campsites have sweet thorn and camel thorn trees that provide welcome shade against the hot sun.

As the weekend drew to a close, it was time to pack up and head back to Gaborone. I again opted to drive in convoy with the vehicle pulling the mobile fridge. In this harsh environment, you don’t want to travel on your own. In fact, when we got to the cut line, the driver found that one mudguard was giving problems. Nothing that my Leatherman couldn’t solve – we quickly unscrewed it.

We took the drive back easily. Our tyre pressure had been adjusted and we weren’t travelling fast, so it was relaxing. This meant we could also take in the beauty of our surroundings. Some 10km before Gaborone, we pulled up under a large tree, where the rest of the club was waiting. Every LCB trip must have a debriefing and this beautiful spot was where members decided to reflect on the visit to Khutse. One thing is certain, it was a trip to remember.

If you’re planning a trip to Botswana, turn to the Tracks4Africa Botswana Self-Drive Guide Book for vital information. Remember, Tracks4Africa books reflect the same information as Tracks4Africa GPS maps for seamless planning and navigation.