A long weekend is just enough time to slow travel in the Klein Karoo. Trundle through Seweweekspoort and picnic at the lesser-visited Gamkapoort Dam. Then head to Van Wyksdorp via the jaw-dropping and hair(pin)-raising Rooiberg Pass. By Marié Bester

I took a chance when I booked the stay at Seweweekspoort Accommodation just north of Seweweekspoort. It would be winter time, with a possibility of cold and wet weather. But there was a long weekend in June and we just couldn’t stay at home. Sometimes, Lady Luck smiles on you and in the end we had perfect weather to explore the area. 

From Swellendam, we took the winding Tradouws Pass north, towards Barrydale and the R62. On a sunny day, this is a beautiful pass to drive, with lazy, winding corners taking you deep into the rugged fynbos-covered mountains. Tucked-away stops give access to clear mountain streams and rock pools – a favourite among the locals in summer. 

Along the R62 towards Ladismith, the veld was standing green and proud, with bright red aloes and orange-flowered succulents in full bloom. After a decent lunch in Ladismith (which was enjoyed in first gear – slow and steady), we headed further east on the R62, towards Seweweekspoort. 

The golden gateway

Seweweekspoort takes you through a spectacular gorge lined with jaw-dropping mountain cliff folds. The gravel road follows the Huis River at the bottom of the gorge, criss-crossing it 23 times. When this road was completed in 1862, it shortened a weeklong journey to only three hours. It is still used daily by locals and travellers alike, linking Ladismith and Laingsburg and now takes around 90 minutes.

We entered the poort as the sun started to set, igniting the mountain tops in a fiery gold. With every turn we found ourselves trying to look up as far as possible. Sometimes we caught glimpses of the mountain tops only when the road opened up. Here, you truly are between giants. 

The gravel road was graded shortly before our trip due to the previous week’s floods, ensuring a fairly smooth ride, with few corrugated areas. Before the sun could dip below the horizon, we arrived at Ben’s Cottage – our base camp for the next two nights.

In search of water

After breakfast the next morning, we set off to picnic at Gamkapoort Dam. Initially, the road to Prince Albert ran through this area, but in 1969 the dam was completed as part of the Department of Water Affairs’ plan for flood control in the valley. 

To get to Gamkapoort Dam, you travel via Bosluiskloof Pass – a name derived from the masses of fossilised ticks you can find in the area’s rock beds. This pass has one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen. Seemingly unending blue mountain ridges disappear into the horizon as the road snakes high above the river. Certain places on the pass are quite narrow, meaning vehicles need to give way to each other. The overall state of the road is fair, with rockier areas on the pass and sandy spots in the valley. 

Take it slowly, not only to enjoy the scenery, but also to be on the lookout for klipspringer and kudu. Warning signs have been erected at specific spots where they might try to jump over your vehicle as the road is lower than the embankment. 

As you near the end of the pass, the valley opens up and you can breathe easier again. High koppies, covered in aloes, Rhenosterveld and Karoo vegetation, loom over the valley and direct your eyes to the shimmering dam at the end of the road. 

A sparkling spectacle

Gamkapoort Dam is quite a scene. A large body of water meets you as you pass through the entrance gate and take the path uphill towards the dam wall. To the left of the parking area at the end of the road is a footpath you can take for a view of the dam wall. At our visit, the dam was filled to the brim and large fish swam just beneath the surface, creating big, inviting bubbles as they played around. 

You don’t feel you’re crossing rough terrain as much when you drive downhill, compared with driving uphill. The way back up the pass felt a lot shakier in our Jimny than I could remember from going down. Perhaps I was just distracted by the views the first time around. To me, Bosluiskloof is much prettier than Gamkaskloof, which is just on the other side of the mountain. 

But first, wine

After we said our goodbyes to Zandrivier the next morning, we headed back through Seweweekspoort towards Calitzdorp. My husband had lost a bet and he owed me a bottle of wine, which I claimed at Boplaas Cellar. I made sure we passed the cellar when I planned our route for the weekend. 

Our route south from Calitzdorp led past several farms. The tar road quickly gives way to gravel as you enter the Groenfontein Nature Reserve. This road leads up Rooiberg Pass, linking Calitzdorp with Van Wyksdorp. 

Up and over

Rooiberg Pass is another sight to behold. With the Klein Karoo at your back, you cross over to the Southern Cape, with the vegetation changing at each turn. The climb up the mountain is rugged and steep. With 69 turns in total, including six hairpin bends, you’ll often overlook the route you followed from down below. Poor weather conditions may turn this road into a slippery mess of rock and clay at certain spots. 

Near the top of the pass is a wonderful viewpoint that faces the Klein Karoo with mountain ridges for days. Then, as you cross over the summit, you’re on top of the world. Deep ravines make way for hidden valleys you never knew existed, with the Langeberg mountain range lining the horizon. This side of the pass is wider and somewhat smoother, but still littered with sharp bends and loose gravel. Once in the valley below, the area is dotted with decades-old aloes, standing tall and proud in their bright red headdresses. Signs of people are few and far between with little cell reception until you reach Van Wyksdorp. 

Lulled to sleep on Garcia Pass

After reaching Van Wyksdorp, we wanted to take the “shortcut” gravel road between the R327 and the R323. But due to flooding the previous week, the only bridge was washed away. This meant we had to head back towards Ladismith to connect with the R323, heading to Riversdale. We decided not to risk trying Gysmanshoek Pass either, since the possibility of sections being washed away was high. So, we opted for the easier, smoother and faster route back home: via Garcia’s Pass and Riversdale. After being bumped around in the Jimny for three days, my body was secretly loving it. Once we hit that tar road, I barely made it home with open eyes. 

The Route

Want to explore the Klein Karoo? Plot your route in the Tracks4Africa Online Trip Planner or use this Swellendam to Seweweekspoort Circuit. You need to register as a trip planner user to view it.

For guidance on using the online platform, watch the Trip Planner video.

Good to know

• Bosluiskloof Pass to Gamkapoort Dam and back took us a good few hours, including time for photo stops. I highly recommend this as a day outing.
• To get to Gamkapoort Dam, you drive through Bosch Luys Kloof Nature Reserve. The access code for the main gate is posted on the gate and is open to everyone. The dam itself, however, may only be visited between 06h00 and 18h00.  The nature reserve has accommodation – book through their website. 
• Contact Bosch Luys Kloof NR to check the state of the road before setting off. There are places that can wash away in flash floods and the river crossing may require a high clearance vehicle.
• Always take all your trash with you, as there are no bins available in the reserve, nor at the dam site.
• For Rooiberg Pass, make sure to pack food and water for the trip as this road is slow going. At the bottom of the pass (at 33°44’31.4″S 21°34’15.7″E) is a good place to pull off, scramble up a rock koppie and enjoy lunch overlooking the valley. 
• In good weather conditions, a sedan may be able to cross Rooiberg Pass, but a high clearance vehicle is recommended, as some sections are prone to washouts. 

Explore the most scenic routes with the Tracks4Africa Cape to Addo Touring Maps. These detailed maps cover the aspects important to self-drive travellers and adventure bikers: minor gravel roads, hiking trails and points of interest. They highlight mountain passes and scenic routes so you can plan memorable trips.