In this landscape of big boulders and forgotten ruins, lonely roads invite adventure bikers to see Namaqualand outside flower season. By Johann Groenewald

Namaqualand is synonymous with an abundance of spring flowers during the months of August, September and possibly October. During this peak season, you can witness a true spectacle of nature as an otherwise barren landscape is transformed into a tapestry of flowers. In spring, this miraculous display attracts a lot of tourists from all over the world.

For three months of the year, tourist establishments in Namaqualand don’t have enough beds available. But the rest of the year, the area beckons those that love adventure travel and enjoy the quiet of the backcountry.

I had the privilege of getting to know Namaqualand as a child when I visited my grandparents on their farm outside the small town of Nuwerus. The rugged landscape with its granite outcrops became part of my childhood memories. The area is mostly known for sheep farming and grain in some places. Sheep farms imply gates, lots of them! Disturbed land previously used for grain farming means lots of spring flowers.

Return to Namaqualand

In November 2024, I decided that I wanted to visit the area on my adventure bike.  I could remember two spoor tracks winding through farmland – Namaqualand seemed to be the perfect place to ride your bike. With the flower season being something of the past, it also meant that I would mostly have the roads to myself. 

My route took me up the west coast of South Africa from Velddrif all the way to Strandfontein, where I headed inland towards Nuwerus. Although the road to Nuwerus was well etched into my childhood memory, from there on I started to ride minor gravel roads. I found myself riding towards place names I had only seen on maps before.

I rode past and through places like Komkans, Rietpoort, Molsvlei and Stofkraal to arrive in Garies on the N7 for a fuel stop. That night I camped at Kroon Lodge in Kamieskroon. This little town is very well placed if you want to explore the area east and west of the N7. My focus for this trip was on the area west of the N7, more specifically Namaqua National Park. While the park’s eastern boundary extends to the N7 at Kamieskroon, the main entrance gate at Skilpad is about 20km northwest of the town.

Small towns and big rocks

The following day started with a loop in the area south of the park.  From the N7, I rode across Grootvlei and Killian’s passes. Both of these are good, graded gravel roads winding through granite koppies. I saw plenty of dassies in the early morning air trying to catch some sun. Although there were no flowers, the veld still looked very green and ‘healthy’ to me with plenty of bird life everywhere. The scenery was spectacular.

My route took me in a southwesterly direction along a small farm track with many gates. One can only hope that these tracks remain open to the public. It reminded me that we as visitors should be respectful of the people who make a living in this area. Close the gates behind you and drive slowly.

Tracks4Africa travel tip

It is etiquette to leave farm gates as you find them. If the gate is closed when you arrive, you should close it again. If you find it open, leave it open.

I ended up in a small town called Spoegrivier and, after ascending the Systershoog Pass, turned south towards Klipfontein. This really is a lovely track that descends into the valley and takes you to a little settlement. Bethel’s Klip is a historic place where Rev. Barnabas Shaw first preached the gospel to the Namaqua people in 1819.  A large granite boulder, which probably rolled down from the top of the valley, came to rest in such a way that it creates a perfect amphitheater. The rock amplifies your voice and it is easy to see why this spot was so perfect for preaching. I had my morning coffee under the shade trees here and then proceeded to ride the track through the valley towards Klipfontein. This is not a graded gravel road but rather a two-spoor track that meanders through the valley with some sand patches here and there. For novice adventure bikers, this may be a bit of a challenge to overcome.

Checking into Soebatsfontein

From Klipfontein there is a good tar road connecting to the N7. However, I went further west in the direction of Hondeklipbaai and the tar road became a graded gravel road after a few kilometres. Although this is considered a main gravel road in the area, it clearly carries a lot of traffic. It is so corrugated that you must stand up in many places.  I turned off this gravel road onto a minor road that leads back to Soebatsfontein and immediately the riding became relaxing again. The scenery also improved but this may be because I could pay attention to it!

Soebatsfontein is yet another small village in the area and I was hosted by Ray and Linda from the Soebatsfontein Guest Lodge.  The hamlet is situated on the eastern boundary of Namaqua National Park, which makes it a very convenient base for exploring the area. The park’s Skilpad Rest Camp is about 27km from Soebatsfontein and the gate to the park is open, making it possible to enter at this point.  During the peak flower season the gate will be manned to assist with access control. But on my visit during November, I was the only person entering on the day.

Of koppies and valleys

On day three, I headed into Namaqua National Park and first rode to Skilpad Rest Camp, where park reception is located. The road inside the park was in a very good condition and it is a splendid route through koppies and valleys. This road can be negotiated in any kind of vehicle; however, the greater Namaqualand area is better suited to a high clearance vehicle with all terrain tyres. I saw plenty of game along this ride and stopped off at Koeroebees picnic site along the way. Koeroebees was an old homestead of which only the ruins are left to see.

At Skilpad reception I obtained my park permit before heading to nearby Kamieskroon to refuel. The gravel road to Kamieskroon can become badly corrugated and there are some sandy patches, so be careful on a large bike.

Back inside the park I decided to explore the so called 4WD tracks, of which the first one was a quick loop around the Skilpad rest camp area.  This turned out not to be a 4WD track! (You should be fine in a vehicle with high ground clearance, although in wet and slippery conditions 4WD may be advisable.)  Further along the road towards Soebatsfontein I first stopped off at Die Dak Van Namakwaland (Roof of Namaqualand) picnic site before taking on the Caracal Eco Route.

The Caracal Eco Route 

This trail starts in the Skilpad section of the park. It first heads in a northerly direction towards Wildeperdehoek Pass before turning west and eventually south towards Hondeklipbaai. From here it becomes the coastal section of the park where you will encounter deep sand in places until you reach Groenrivier, the southernmost boundary of the park.  To complete this route, you will definitely require a 4WD vehicle.

I did the section from Skilpad to exit the park at Wildeperdehoek Pass. The trails I did vary from graded gravel public roads to two spoor tracks and proper 4WD sections. On the latter you need to negotiate deep ruts, small river crossings and sandy patches with steep climbs in places.

I also know that during the rainy season these tracks will become very slippery and some of the small rivers may become flooded.  I managed to put down my big Honda Africa Twin (with luggage) once on a rocky climb. There were also a few adrenaline moments in the sandy sections but nothing too serious. However, if you are not comfortable riding on rough terrain and sand, then rather stay on the gravel sections of the park. On our Tracks4Africa GPS maps, we indicate sandy patches, cattle grids and drifts to warn travellers.

Surprising sights 

After wrestling with my bike in the mid thirty degree heat, I stumbled upon Kookfontein, an abandoned homestead. Here I found a fountain filling a refreshing swim dam with cool water. I quickly stripped out of my sweaty riding gear and spoiled myself with a swim in the dam.

From Kookfontein the riding was still technical but much easier than the sections I had already completed. The trail climbs up the Kamiesberg until you reach Wildeperdehoek Pass.  The views along this section were quite spectacular.

Wildeperdehoek Pass is partly inside the park, and I rode east towards Springbok for a few kilometers to experience the eastern section of the pass. I also wanted to have a look at the old ruin that served as the housing for convict labour during the pass’s construction between 1867 and 1869.  The old prison is on the adjacent Messelpad Pass. A short track leads down to the prison, which is situated on the banks of the Buffels River. Be warned: this track is steep and washed away and should not be attempted without a 4WD vehicle.

At the bottom of this trail, I found another vehicle and soon the owner appeared from between the ruins.  It turned out to be a long-standing client of Tracks4Africa and there was a happy reunion before I had to head back.

A side stand incident

From the old prison ruins, I rode to the summit of the Wildeperdehoek Pass. From here you have some spectacular views over Namaqua National Park. At the summit, I found a track heading north – this is supposed to be another 4WD track. Actually, it turned out to be a minor gravel road among the farms, with several gates that had to be opened and closed again. The road eventually spits you out on the tar road just north of Komaggas.  In this small town where the tar road ends, there was fuel and much needed ice-cream and coke! Here I had what they call a ‘side stand incident’. I dropped the bike at the fuel stop to the cheers of the small crowd on the stoep of the café. I was too tired to care, and they helped me to pick it up again.

At Komaggas I decided that this would be the end of my Namaqualand adventure ride.  I headed to Port Nolloth for the coolness of the Atlantic Ocean and more importantly a hotel bed and steak dinner! 

For seekers of solitude

Namaqualand is quite a big area and I sampled only a few of its tracks and views, mostly motivated by my childhood memories of visiting my grandparents’ farm. From the little I experienced and with my memory bank now updated, I am convinced that adventure bikers and adventure seekers in general should put Namaqualand on their must-visit list. 

You can decide to base yourself in one of the towns offering accommodation and do outrides in different directions or do as I did and traverse with all your luggage from one place to another. During the flower season, Namaqualand will be a very busy place. It’s probably not the best time to come and ride trails as you have to fight for accommodation. Come before or after the flower season and you will have the place to yourself. I think the people who make a living here would welcome more tourists with open arms outside of the flower season.

Map in the pipeline

Tracks4Africa travellers can look forward to a Namaqualand touring map later in 2025. We kicked off the year with an extensive research trip to verify roads and uncover attractions. The projected map will help independent travellers choose the most scenic routes and find services like fuel, shops and lodging.