The Wild Coast lives up to its name: little explored and developed, with untouched beaches and forests. For 4×4 adventurers, the river crossings and rugged roads pose proper challenges. By Danny Eldridge

My recent trip to the Wild Coast again made me realise that this is a part of the world more people should see. Stretching from East London to the KwaZulu-Natal border, the Wild Coast is a place of coastal forests, myriad rivers and picturesque beaches. Although I first visited here over 20 years ago, it is since Covid restrictions were lifted that I have been exploring the area’s 4×4 routes. I love the expanses of almost untouched rugged wilderness, stunning vistas, friendly locals and rich history. Not to mention the amazing food and hospitality when you stay over. 

As a 4×4 adventure guide, I lead overlanders on trips to remote parts of the country. At the end of June 2025, I guided a group, consisting of myself and six vehicles, on an 8-day extreme 4×4 trip of the Wild Coast. This region is not for the faint-hearted. You will need to build roads and clear overgrown bush to get through. To find your way among the myriad tracks that criss-cross the landscape, you need to be properly prepared with coordinates and detailed maps. There is the possibility of getting lost, running out of fuel, getting stuck and/or damaging the vehicle if you’re not adequately experienced or prepared. 

What draws us to the Wild Coast is the Grade 4 to 5 river crossing obstacles and a proper extreme 4×4 challenge. It can sometimes take the entire day to cover a distance of 10km. At times you will find that the way forward is not passable. The river crossings require a lot of preparation and experience, combined with an equal dose of hard work. The reward: breathtaking views over the rivers and river mouths. This year’s trip was no exception.

A rollicking start

Our group met at the Kei Mouth for the vital driver’s briefing before taking the ferry across. We discovered that one of the vehicles had a low range malfunction, so it wouldn’t be able to handle the extreme river crossings. While its owners set off on the inland gravel routes, the rest of us pointed our vehicles towards the Gxara River. It was a twisty approach as we descended the grassy slope to the crossing. Large trees overhang the river, which is fringed with palms along the water’s edge. The Gxara River crossing has a rocky river bottom cluttered with boulders and is usually 400-500mm deep. After heavy rain, it can become much deeper.

Fortunately, we could make our way through and up the Grade 4 steps, where we had to do some road building to get out. Our route led past Nongqawuse Falls before taking us to Trennerys for the night. Here we enjoyed a trio of memorable experiences. We watched the Springboks defeat the Barbarians, tucked into a seafood buffet and listened to singing by locals.

The art of river crossings

With several challenging river crossings ahead of us, day two put us and our vehicles through our paces. First up was the Qolora River Crossing. Because several of the approach obstacles had been washed away in places, we had to carefully guide our vehicles down the steep slope. But what caused more trouble was the muddy swamp before the crossing. One vehicle slipped in and got stuck in a deep mud rut, so we had to get our recovery gear out. The crossing itself requires you to make your way across the river by climbing over rocky ledges. Although it looks daunting, we all made it through without a hitch and could enjoy a short break at the Gates Waterfall.

From there we had to cross two streams that feed into the Ncizele River. At the second crossing, especially, severe erosion had eaten away at the tracks. Out of our group, only the huge modified jeep, with its monster tyres and double diff-lock could make it up the embankment. The rest of the vehicles were winched up the Grade 4 exit route, saving us a few hours of road building. 

At the Kobonqgabe River, we could see the aftermath of the storms that swept through the Eastern Cape in June. The crossing was littered with boulders, which we had to remove before we could pass through. Flood damage was evident 2–3m above the water line. We arrived at Wavecrest somewhat dusty and tired, but with the sense of a day well spent. 

Back roads and unspoilt beaches

Another beautiful morning dawned on the Wild Coast. Despite it being winter, the weather was fine and like every day we were in T-shirts. Crossing the Nqgusi River called for some careful manoeuvring as much of the exit track had been washed away. At our next crossing, on the Nxaxo River, the picture was even more precarious. Not only was the approach severely eroded, but also the exit steps, turning both sections into Grade 5 obstacles. It was clear that attempting this crossing would result in vehicle damage of a sort. I will be returning in November to attempt opening up the Nxaxo River Crossing.

As a result, we opted to follow the alternative gravel route through the interior to Cebe. Our drive along back roads led past neat homesteads with typical Xhosa rondavels. With time on our side, we decided to do some preparation for the Cebe River Crossing the next day. The windy route down to the river was somewhat overgrown, so we trimmed the vegetation back and moved rocks to even out the track. Our day ended at Serendipity and we couldn’t have asked for a better spot. We spent the afternoon relaxing by the unspoilt beach and tucked into fresh oysters and mussels for sundowners.

The road not travelled

We were grateful for the previous day’s efforts when it came to crossing the Cebe River. The windy track snakes past large trees that require cautious navigation – not made any easier by the deep ruts in the track. With passengers jumping out to direct, we successfully tackled the Grade 4 exit’s technical rock sections and wash-aways. There were a few bends that required guidance, but with trimming and road building done the day before, we soon made our way out. 

Then it was onto the Gqunqe River Crossing: another twisty approach, technical rocky river crossing and technical rocky exit. Again, we had to get out to cut back shrubs and trees, and guide the drivers. But still we couldn’t put away our chain saws, hand saws, hedge trimmers and loppers. When we arrived at the Ngqwara River, it was clear that nobody had passed in a long time. Both approach routes were severely overgrown.

After getting out and walking the tracks, we eventually settled on the route that seemed least overgrown. While some of our party started hacking away, one member went ahead to check the whole track down to the river. Unfortunately, the crossing was not to be. He found severe steep wash-aways that needed major road building – another task to tackle on the November trip. Since it was already mid-afternoon, we decided to take the gravel escape route to Kob Inn, where we arrived as the sun began to set.

Recharging batteries

A day at leisure allowed us to recharge our batteries and enjoy what makes the Wild Coast so special. Much of it centred around the golden beach fronting Kob Inn. Some went for a leisurely walk, others a horse ride; we all appreciated the steak braai and fresh oyster sundowners. We also saw to our vehicles, making use of the hotel workshop to effect minor repairs.

Although most of our trip was spent seeking out the river crossings closer to the coast, we now turned inland to tackle Mbashe River Pass. A long gravel pass of 14km, it offers commanding views of the countryside. We drove past brightly painted houses, horses grazing by the roadside and people going about their everyday lives. Ngoma River Mouth was a scenic spot for lunch.

Our next stop, The Haven Hotel, gave us a chance to get a closer look at Mbashe Lighthouse. Authorities first installed a beacon here back in 1892 to protect ships plying this coastline. When the lighthouse initially opened, a gas mantle provided the light; since 1962, it is electric. Conveniently, a boardwalk offers access to the lighthouse.

With the challenging river crossings behind us, we followed back roads towards Coffee Bay. On our itinerary: visiting the rock formation known as Hole in the Wall. The walk through the milkwood forest to reach it is atmospheric and tranquil. After a week of focused 4×4 driving, it felt good to be stretching the legs. It felt even better to have shown the Wild Coast off to more 4×4 adventurers.

Tips for Wild Coast Extreme Challenge Route

• This route requires a 4×4 with high clearance, 4×4 low range, diff-lock and rated recovery points.
• Only attempt it if at least three vehicles. Someone in the group should have basic first aid training and a first aid kit. It may be several hours to the nearest local clinic or hospital.
• Thoroughly prepare with as much detail as possible and have a Plan B, C and D at hand.
• Days are long, so it is easier to stay in accommodation rather than have the extra task of setting up camp. 
• Your vehicle must be equipped with a full recovery kit and recovery tracks – a basic kit will not be adequate. A winch is recommended as well.
• A compressor and tyre repair kit are must-haves. Best to take an extra spare too.
• Along most of the remote tracks, cellphone signal is non-existent. A satellite phone or mobile satellite dish is invaluable. Have emergency contacts and plans available.
• Carry emergency food and water, plus a sleeping bag.

Tracks4Africa advice for the Wild Coast

Although the Wild Coast offers extreme challenges as described here, most of its highlights can be accessed without having to take on these obstacles. There are always detours, albeit inland and longer distances. You should, however, still be prepared for some 4WD driving as these gravel roads can turn to slippery mud when it rains. The peak rain season, December to February, tends to be more challenging. The coolest and driest months are July to September.

Always be prepared as if travelling in remote areas, carry water and food rations and have emergency plans in place. Our Wild Coast paper map, which forms part of the Slingsby range, is a perfect companion for such a trip and you will be able to plan for various options. 

A note when using a GPS to calculate routes in the Wild Coast: set your GPS to fastest route calculation if you want to use the gravel options. If you set it to shortest distance, it will invariably take you through some of the extreme challenges! Having the map in the Tracks4Africa Guide App open offers you the best overview of where you are and what your options are.

About the overlander

Danny Eldridge loves to explore the wilderness and has been 4x4ing for over 30 years. He is a qualified Cathsseta NQF4 guide, adept in first aid, snake bite first aid, 4×4 recovery and more. When he is not leading trails, you can find him spending time with his wife and two furry ridgeback children or working as conservation volunteer in South African National Parks.