The Nossob Eco Trail takes you to parts of the Kgalagadi other visitors don’t get to see. But that’s not the only reason to take on this 4×4 trail, says Alta Wessels.

We love the Kgalagadi – my husband, Emile, calls it his “happy place”. This year we decided to do the Nossob Eco Trail for a different experience of this special environment. So we rounded up some friends and tackled the trail in late April 2025. 

The route runs through the dunes between Twee Rivieren and Nossob camps along tracks that cannot be accessed by the public any other way. During even months the trail starts at Twee Rivieren and ends at Nossob. During odd months it runs in the opposite direction; starting at Nossob and ending at Twee Rivieren. 

The trail itself takes four days and three nights, departing on Mondays and finishing on Thursdays. In fact, you could also describe it as four nights, since SANParks provides a night’s free camping at Nossob. This is either before the trail, if you start at Nossob, or after, if you start at Twee Rivieren.

Prepared for adventure

We camped at Twee Rivieren on the Sunday night, so we could be ready for our 09:00 start. Final checks ensured everybody had enough water and firewood for the duration of the trip. Each vehicle has to be fully self-sufficient, carrying food and enough water for drinking and showering for the full trail. Remember to bring your own shower bag with which to heat up water. One bag of firewood per vehicle should be sufficient for every night’s braai and campfire.  

On Monday morning we met our guide, Thys, in the parking lot outside Twee Rivieren reception. He explained the rules for the next few days and distributed handheld radios, then we were on our way! The first part of the route follows the usual road between Twee Rivieren and Nossob before turning away just past the lower dune road. As soon as we left the public road, we stopped to fit our seed nets – a must after a good rainy season. We also let down the pressure on our tyres since we would be crossing a number of dunes.

We soon got into an enjoyable rhythm. Frequent stops gave us the opportunity to get out of the vehicle and experience the veld up close and personal. It was immediately apparent that Thys is passionate about everything Kgalagadi and has a wealth of knowledge he loves to share. 

Lion and other electrifying sights

It was late afternoon when we reached Witgat Campsite. It is important to note that all three the trail’s campsites are unfenced. Although basic, with a long drop toilet and shelter for showering, the campsites are in good condition and kept very clean and tidy. The lack of luxury facilities is more than offset by the setting and views.

Shortly after our arrival, thunderclouds started moving in. At sunset a lion began roaring from the dune just behind the campsite. Some members of our group had the task of keeping watch for the lion, while others got on with the important task of braaing. At the same time, we were treated to a truly spectacular electrical storm. We had just finished supper when the lion decided it was time to visit the waterhole. After drinking his fill, he came marching directly through our campsite. Everyone was ordered into their tents or vehicles, but we still managed to keep an eye on his progress. 

We had just settled down from the excitement and were putting things away for the night, when the heavens opened. Everyone scurried back to their tents. No time to brush teeth, just grabbing the most necessary and getting into bed. Later that night we were woken by the lion roaring and again walking past just outside the circle of our vehicles.

The next day dawned beautifully clear. The first order of business was to inspect the lion’s tracks and calculate exactly how close he had been. To the liking of most in our company, too close for comfort!

A window onto the Kgalagadi

Breakfast and breaking up camp took place at a leisurely pace and we set off at about 09:00 every morning. The distance covered per day is only about 65km. The pace is relaxed and Thys made sure that we had regular stops to stretch our legs. He also used these opportunities to share his extensive insight into the Kgalagadi. The topics ranged from temperature regulation in sociable weaver nests, to medical uses of various plants, to the life cycle of jackals, to the design features of tall bushman grass seeds. Every day Thys would find a shady spot for lunch.   

In the afternoon we stopped to look out over the Nossob Valley before crossing the upper dune road to our campsite at Rosyntjiebos. 

Most of the trail is not very technical, but on the third day Big Bertha lies in wait. This dune is the most difficult part of the trail, but it is optional as it is only used to reach a view point. Since this is the biggest dune in the area, the view from the top offers a 360-degree panorama.

After conquering Big Bertha, the rest of the dunes were easy as pie. Swartbas was our last campsite before reaching Nossob and the end of the trail. Although it was a nice shady campsite, we had mixed feelings because the trail would be over the next day.

Time to recharge

The last morning we were especially relaxed as we wanted to stretch the last part of the trail out just a little bit longer. It was easy driving and if you do the trail in this direction, the group has the use of a campsite without power at Nossob.

The focus of the trip is not on game viewing. In the dry season, especially, you may see more game on the main roads that follow the riverbeds with their waterholes. However, we were lucky enough to see quite lot, including lion and cheetah.

We can really recommend this trail for a number of reasons. It is a lovely way to access parts of Kgalagadi that you otherwise would not get to see. You learn about so many topics in a fun and relaxing way. The pace on the trail is very relaxed and you can truly unwind, breathe deeply and recharge. It is a lovely experience to share with a group of friends. 

Good to know

• Minimum of two and maximum of five guest vehicles. One guide vehicle. No trailers, large overland vehicles or trucks allowed. 
• No children under the age of 12 years allowed.
• The trail is totally self-catered. This includes food, water for drinking and showers, firewood, tents (no hiking or one-man tents) and vehicles. Don’t forget to bring a braai grid, hat, sunblock and closed shoes.

• Only 4×4 vehicles allowed, low range is a prerequisite. 
• All refuse must be removed.
• From the starting point to the next refuelling point is approximately 300km.
• Cost per vehicle R4,911 (2025 rates, excluding daily conservation fees per person). For bookings, email ian.heyns@sanparks.org or contact Kgalagadi  Transfrontier Park on +27 (0)54 561 2037 / 2005 / 2050.

Watch Emile Wessels’s video of the Nossob Eco Trail for a look inside the trail.