In his Land Cruiser Troopy, Holger Meier criss-crosses South Africa in pursuit of beer. And he has a plan to get more travellers exploring the country.

Why do you overland? Some people travel in search of solitude. Others dream of seeing wildlife or adding a tick to their bird list. For certain overlanders, it’s the chance to see natural wonders like the Okavango. For others, the opportunity to photograph new vistas. For Holger Meier, it’s beer. To be more precise, the chance to visit the breweries that make craft beer and the pubs that serve it. 

For over 30 years, Holger’s been involved in the beer industry and whenever he’s had the chance to journey and try a new beer, he’s jumped at it. He gets quite lyrical when he talks about those memorable brews in out-of-the-way places. Like when he found himself in the Richtersveld for Desert Knights, a mountain-bike event under the full moon. With Namibia just across the river, he couldn’t pass up the opportunity to have a Hansa. Not the one made by SAB, but the Namibian Hansa, which wasn’t exported to South Africa for obvious reasons.

“The best place to drink it is at the Canyon Roadhouse,” says Holger. You can hike up one of the koppies surrounding the lodge for a view of the Fish River Canyon. Then when you come back down, you have a Hansa draft.” The way he tells it, the trip along the Richtersveld’s remote gravel roads was worth it for the beer at the end. 

Going the distance

Holger’s gone great distances in pursuit of beer. He’s crossed over into Mozambique from the Kruger National Park so he could have a Manica from a little shop in a dusty village. And driven from Windhoek to Swakopmund for a brewery tour. 

But there was that time in Zimbabwe, around 15-20 years ago, when he nearly went dry. “You couldn’t buy beer unless you had empty bottles because there was a shortage of glass. If you had a case of empties, you could swap it for full one, but if you had nothing, you were stumped.” Luckily, a local farmer helped out and once Holger was in the system as it were, he could sample Zimbabwe’s beers. 

For years he helped pubs and bottle stores use beer to become destinations in their own right. He helped the Wartburger Hof source German beers, so people would make the trip to the KZN Midlands for an authentic experience. In 2014 he published a book spotlighting breweries in South Africa. Travellers would take the book and ask the brew master at each brewery to sign it. Then Covid-19 happened. Small breweries struggled to stay open. “So I said, let me gather the tribe and let’s go visit those breweries again.” And the Beer Passport was born. 

A passport to take you places

What is the Beer Passport? The name really says it all. It is a compact booklet, like a passport in appearance, with listings of breweries across South Africa. Travellers can present their passport at 120 participating breweries to get a stamp and a free beer. This could be a taster or a full draft depending on the brewery, but that doesn’t really matter. It’s more about the pleasure of exploration.

Holger is clear that the point of the Beer Passport isn’t to encourage a booze cruise. “The whole idea is to discover places. What I’m not encouraging is that you tick them off in one go. Spend some time, have lunch. Stay over and make a long weekend out of it.” 

The Beer Passport can serve as inspiration for routes. How about a circuit around Hartbeespoort Dam, a meander through the Midlands or a road trip to Kruger, stopping off at breweries along the way? “It’s about discovering new places and discovering good beer,” says Holger.

Tracks4Africa says: Be sensible and do not drink and drive. Have a meal, spend the night or appoint a designated driver. 

“I met up with one couple who are travelling around on their 200cc motorcycles and they told me I changed their life. Every opportunity they get, they’re visiting all these little breweries. One that stood out for them was L’Abri , about 40km outside Bela-Bela on a dirt road.”  

As fate would have it, when the bikers got there, the farm gate was locked, the brewery closed. They managed to get the owner’s attention, hoping to get their passport stamped. But when he heard their story, he opened up and invited them in for a beer. 

Beers for explorers

The breweries in the Beer Passport are mostly located in places that attract travellers. When asked to recommend a few that would appeal to overlanders, Holger suggests the following:

Cederberg Brewery at Dwarsrivier: Situated in the heart of the Cederberg, this farm is a top destination for hiking, climbing and beer tasting. Whether you approach via Nieuwoudt’s and Uitkyk passes or over Blinkberg Pass and Grootrivierhoogte, the gravel road allows plenty of time to admire the Cederberg’s rugged crags and rock pillars. 

Hops Hollow Country House and Brewery: This is the highest brewery in Africa, thanks to its location on the Long Tom Pass. Surely one of South Africa’s most beautiful passes, the road climbs more than 1,000m from Sabie and delivers beautiful views of forest-clad mountain slopes.

Zwakala Brewery: It is easy to spend all day exploring the picturesque Magoebaskloof; the back roads through Woodbush Forest come recommended. When you’re in need of refreshment, head for award-winning Zwakala Brewery which also serves meals Friday to Sunday.

The pinnacle for overlanders

Of course, the Holy Grail – or should that be pint glass? – of beer destinations is the pub at the top of Sani Pass. Sani Mountain Lodge Pub is the highest pub in Africa and the road to get there is a proper overlanding experience. The series of switchbacks at the top of the pass is an absolute highlight.

“We visited in June, setting off at 07:30 in the morning and reaching the top around 13:00. Then we went to Sani Mountain Lodge to get our stamp and our Maluti Lager. I even got the border guards to stamp my Beer Passport. It was a full day excursion for one beer,” says Holger. 

The Beer Troopy

Fortunately, Holger has the right vehicle to take on rugged roads: a Land Cruiser 78 troop carrier known as the Beer Troopy. How he came to own it is a tale in itself, involving several near misses. One of the vehicles he was eyeing was even purchased by 4×4 filmmaker Andrew St Pierre White. 

With Holger’s passion for visiting bush pubs and breweries, he needed a vehicle that could reach places off the beaten track. The Troopy answers all those needs. He’s modified the vehicle with a rooftop conversion so that he can sleep in the back. “Having the roof cut off was an emotional experience,” he says, “but now I’ve always got a place to sleep. I’m always ready to explore and discover new places for people to visit.”

He’s already done so, travelling to the Clarens Craft Beer Fest and the festival for beer lovers in Greyton. Through the Troopy he’s found a community of overlanders who are happy to jump in their vehicles and join him for an adventure. “It’s amazing how a car can connect you, how beer can connect you,” he says.

If you spot the Beer Troopy on your overlanding trip, stop and speak to Holger. You will get a stamp for the Beer Passport, a story or two (he’s a real raconteur!) and suggestions on where to go. Then it’s up to you to explore further.

Win a Beer Passport

Three Tracks4Africa followers will each win a Beer Passport (valued at R350 each), entitling the bearer to a free beer at the 120 participating breweries, compliments of Beer Troopers. For a chance to win, send your answer to the question to competition@tracks4africa.co.za (subject line: Beer Passport) before 30 September 2024. Remember to include your full name, contact details and daytime delivery address. The winners will be selected randomly. The giveaway is open only to South African residents.

Question: What is the name of the highest brewery in Africa?

Congratulations to the winners: Brian Jacobs, Kim Kincaid, Keith Rivers