The Baviaanskloof and its people enchant, capture your mind and soul, and release you with a yearning to return. On hiking trails and guided tours in the Baviaanskloof’s western section, you will discover what makes it so special. By Marié Bester

We arrived in the Little Karoo via Prince Alfred Pass. With lush coastal forests and fairytale firefly-filled nights in the Knysna forest still fresh in our minds, we entered this arid landscape. Willowmore is the closest town to the main entrance of the Baviaanskloof, making it the last stop for supplies and fuel if you’re traveling from west to east. There are no grocery shops and ATMs, nor fuel available in the kloof. Your next stop for these will be Patensie, more or less 200km east. (Another option from the west is to stop at Uniondale, travelling to Baviaanskloof via Vaalwater. But this road still had “Flood damage” signs at the entrance when we passed during January 2025.)

There’s only one way through the Baviaans and that’s with the R332, which is a fairly decent gravel road in the western or more “developed” area. Once you venture into the Wilderness Area, run by Eastern Cape Tourism, it turns into a challenging track. 

Nuwekloof Pass and its sights

At first, shortly after the R332 Winterhoek turnoff from the N9, you find yourself in Die Vlakte. Then you slowly but surely make your way up a small mountain range. This gives you a beautiful vantage point of this almost desolate farming landscape. It’s flat, dry and mostly covered in brown Karoo-type bossies. I can just imagine what a sight this place would be after a good rain shower when everything turns green. 

At the top, you enter Nuwekloof Pass – the gateway to a whole different world. The rock formations change to large, rugged golden gorges which resemble Seweweekspoort. The road never stretches out too far ahead. With tight turns you zigzag through the pass. This is presumably one of the stories why Raaskrans got its name – apparently people used to honk before making the turn to warn oncoming traffic. 

Also look out for the Baviaanskloof Key (Baviaanskloofsleutel) near the end of the Nuwekloof Pass. This is a large rock next to the road, which, if it falls, it is said will close off the kloof entirely. This area is a good place to see the Willowmore cedar, which is listed as “near threatened” on the SANBI Red List. These slow-growing trees are only found in the Baviaanskloof and Kouga Mountains. 

A flight through the kloof

As you exit the pass, you’ll notice a grand building on your left: the Baviaans Interpretive Centre. Here, the guides will tell you stories of the Baviaanskloof, but the highlight of this stop is a five-minute-long 3D virtual “flight” through the kloof. The rest of the centre still has big dreams, but without funding, it’s currently at a standstill. 

Not too far from the Interpretive Centre, you’ll find the Seven Dwarfs rock formation on your left, overlooking the valley. You’ll need some imagination and a good sense of nostalgia for this one, though. Also be on the lookout for the many leopard tortoises, or bergskilpaaie. They are huge and often seen alongside (or on) the road. 

Between the Nuwekloof Pass and the Wilderness Area, you’ll find many a working farm offering guest accommodation and campsites. It all depends on how far you’ve travelled that day and what type of accommodation you’re looking for. Here, you’ll find anything from really pleasant self-catering/guesthouse stays and decent grass-covered campsites to even treehouses and cave accommodation. 

The secrets of the mountain

We opted to camp at Bo-Kloof Guest Farm for two nights. Mainly because we wanted to hike their Waterkloof hiking trail. The campsite was splendid! It’s situated behind a koppie, out of view of the road. It has power points, drinking water and grass covered sites, along with a clean ablution block. There are only seven sites, so do book in high season. 

This place is also heaven for birders. We saw more species here than in Knysna forest. At dusk we were treated with a beautiful sunset while swallows chased mozzies. The local kingfisher also hung around in the mornings, while the grass is kept short by roaming tortoises. Monkeys and baboons do come down the mountain when it quiets down during the day, so keep everything closed if you’re away.

The highlight of our stay at Bo-Kloof was the Waterkloof hiking trail. This trail shares only one of many secrets these mountains hide within them. You start at the main house, heading towards the mountain along the age-old culvert. At first, you bundu-bash a bit through shrubbery, but then you enter another world. The mountain makes way for a stream that carved a route through the rock. Here, you’ll find an oasis, much cooler and covered with old fig and wild olive trees. Birds flit through the treetops, frogs make way for your step, the small stream gurgles alongside you. It’s green everywhere, with sunrays turning the rockface golden. You can spend hours here, hiding from the heat of the day. 

After your hike, go for lunch and a well-deserved milkshake at the BaviJaans Farmstall at Baviaanskloof Cottages, a short way down the main road. You’ll also find essentials here if needed. (Such as the sunblock that still stood on my bedside table at home.)

Discovering stories and oases 

The next day we made our way to Zandvlakte, a guest farm just outside the Western Gate of the Wilderness Area. It’s a fairly short drive between Bo-Kloof and Zandvlakte, so take your time to enjoy the surroundings. Like stopping at the Sewefontein Wild Fig Forest. Here, with a story-filled guided tour, you’ll see another magical oasis. This is one of the natural springs of the area, which has enough water that a small fig tree forest developed around it. Patrick Ruiters, the local guide, will tell you about the Baviaanskloof, its people, the great flood of 1916, and the fauna and flora, while taking you on the short boardwalk tour. 

Zandvlakte Guest Farm is another oasis. A lush, bird-filled garden surrounding the old farmyard and a naturally filtered swimming pool await your arrival. More leopard tortoises roam the garden, while the ponds teem with fish. There’s beautiful self-catering accommodation, with an option of booking a communal dinner with the owners. This was a little old-school luxury after a week of camping.

Good to know

• Bo-Kloof’s hiking trail has a day fee with an honesty box at the start of the trail.      
• BaviJaans Farmstall is open Monday to Sunday, 09h00 to 16h00. Card facilities available. 
• The Sewefontein Fig Tree Forest guided tour is R50pp, cash. No booking needed, just arrive and ask for Patrick Ruiters or contact him on 087 701 0070.
• The gravel road between Willowmore and Zandvlakte is pretty decent, with only patches of corrugation and some potholes. 

Turn to Tracks4Africa for the maps you need to explore the Baviaanskloof. From our touring map series, Baviaanskloof to Addo (SC7 & SC8) is ideal for finding scenic routes in the area. Get the full Cape to Addo bundle for explorations along the south coast of South Africa. The Slingsby Baviaanskloof map offers a detailed look at roads, tracks and hiking trails in the Baviaanskloof Conservation Area.