Our self-drive journey through Namibia in October 2024 was nothing short of breathtaking. From the sweeping dunes of the Kalahari to the vast Fish River Canyon, we were treated to the greatest show on earth by Mother Nature. By Stéphane Parrenin

Our family of four (including two teenagers!) flew in from Sydney, via South Africa, and picked up a VW Amarok at Windhoek Airport. I had planned our itinerary using the Tracks4Africa Namibia map and Namibia Self-drive Guide, Namibia Bradt guide and the Tracks4Africa Guide App. The practical information on distance, travel time and road type was priceless for planning our route.

Since we had only eight days, I selected a few points of interest: the Kalahari Desert, Fish River Canyon and Namib-Naukluft National Park. On average we drove between four and five hours every second day. I would not recommend doing more – rather take the time to soak up the vibes of the desert. This way you have time to enjoy not just the landscape, but also where you are staying. 

Spectacular sightings and sights

Our Namibian holiday started at Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch near Mariental, just under four hours from Windhoek. The ranch provided a smooth introduction to the Kalahari Desert, with the red sand dunes offering a warm welcome. We stayed in two garden rooms near the pool, where oryx – and on occasion, white rhino – came to graze. Bagatelle also offers the chance to see springbok, zebra, ostrich, meerkat and cheetah. Although the ranch puts out feed for the animals, it is big enough to offer game drives and we went twice. We also had sundowners while watching the cheetahs get fed. They are orphans, kept in their own enclosure, as part of a controlled programme with the Cheetah Conservation Fund. 

I wondered whether it would be worth the detour to drive south of Keetmanshoop to visit the Fish River Canyon. It certainly was. The canyon rim is awe-inspiring. The vast, rugged landscape has a prehistoric feel to it, and the views of the canyon stretching into the distance are spectacular. Do drive alongside the rim to take advantage of the various lookout points. Each provides a different view over the canyon. Because the Fish River Canyon is best seen in the morning when the sun is behind you, we stayed at Hobas, just 20 minutes away, to do just that. At sunrise the light slowly illuminates the canyon walls, emphasising their layered rock formations.

Immersed in nature

Our route next led to the Namtib Biosphere Reserve, along the D707. This must be one of the most scenic roads in Namibia, if not the world. We were lucky enough to see rain, sunshine, clouds, lighting and a rainbow on our trip. What a magical experience and an amazing palette of colours!

Our destination was Namtib Desert Lodge, nestled at the foothills of the Tiras Mountains. This is an absolute gem: a charming and off-the-beaten-path lodge set amidst dramatic mountain scenery. Hosts Linn and Thorsten welcome all guests at the large family table for meals and offer a personal touch. Ask them for directions to the quiver tree forest that doesn’t appear on any maps. The Tiras Mountains present a completely different landscape, with rocky outcrops and endless vistas that seem to stretch forever. Hiking in this untouched wilderness was a unique experience and we felt completely immersed in nature. Admiring the sunset, the sunrise and the stars at night was an unforgettable experience. 

We then made our way to Sesriem, the gateway to Sossusvlei and Deadvlei. Do not miss the Betta coffee shop on the way to Sesriem. It is absolutely gorgeous, the food is good, and the staff very welcoming. We found it much less touristy and busy than Solitaire and it is equally picturesque, with old cars rusting in the front yard. 

Our stay at Desert Hills Glamping Camp added a touch of luxury to our adventure. The luxury tents offered all the comforts of home while allowing us to feel connected to the desert. We were surrounded by stunning desert landscapes in every direction. Desert Hills is one of the most affordable options near Sesriem, offering a definite feel of luxury yet great value for money.

One of the world’s wonders

I’d intended to self-drive to Sossusvlei, but decided to book a half-day tour from our accommodation as a treat. This turned out to be worthwhile as I could enjoy the scenery without worrying about driving or handling entry fees. We also enjoyed our guide’s commentary and deep knowledge of the area. By 7am we were at the gate, so didn’t have to queue. The morning light was amazing and our driver took us directly to the car park closest to Deadvlei. The stretch of road leading there is made of soft red sand. If you are not a confident off-road driver, rather take the shuttle from the Sesriem office to the Deadvlei parking area. [The shuttle previously ran from the first Sossusvlei parking area, but since the end of 2024, departs from the Sesriem office. – T4A]

A 15-minute walk from the parking area brought us to Deadvlei, which is spectacular and indisputably one of the wonders of the world. Although it is quite busy, it is a relatively large area, so it is possible to be on your own. Despite the crowd, there are plenty of great photo opportunities. There is some debate about the value of staying inside the park so you can reach the dunes early enough to catch the first rays of the sun. The resorts inside the park are more expensive, so to my mind it is only worth it if you are a pro photographer. I managed to take amazing photos and did not regret our decision to stay in Sesriem. Sossusvlei itself, which is about 1km from the Deadvlei car park, is a lovely area. There are trees and picnic tables where you can unwind. 

Our self-drive tour to Namibia was an unforgettable experience. Each of the places we stayed at offered its unique flavour, blending comfort with a deep connection to the surrounding landscape. Navigating the wide-open roads was part of the adventure, with incredible views at every turn. 

Good to know

• Namibia’s gravelled C roads look like four-lane highways in places. But a nice smooth section where you can easily go 100km/h can abruptly give way to a heavily corrugated section. In areas where the gravel is not stable, the car will skid. Stick to the speed limit or stay under it. There is so much to see, you don’t want to be rushing.
• D roads are more challenging. If you’re lucky, the road scraper will have recently levelled the track. I highly recommend driving the D707, even though we found it heavily corrugated and sandy in places. It is worth it for the breathtaking landscapes. 
• T4A says: Watch out for patches of sand blown onto the road, as well as wildlife like zebra and oryx that may dash in front of the vehicle.  A slow and steady pace is advised.

• Not all villages have petrol stations, but you can rely on the Tracks4Africa Namibia guide and Guide App for reliable information on petrol availability. I filled the tank often for peace of mind.
• A good alternative to eating on the road is to go to a hotel or guesthouse. The Bahnhof Hotel in Aus springs to mind: great food but quite expensive. In Keetmanshoop, try the Central Lodge coffee shop, which has safe parking in the courtyard. In Klein Aub, Conny’s Coffee Shop is an institution – note that cash is required. [When visiting the Fish River Canyon, the Canyon Roadhouse is an institution and a chance to refuel yourself and your vehicle. – T4A]
• We saw a few sedans with 2WD on our route. While you could follow our itinerary with a 2WD car, I would recommend 4WD. A 4×4 offers better suspension, high clearance, comfort and peace of mind. 

Want to plan your own trip to Namibia? The Tracks4Africa Namibia Self-drive Guide is packed with all the information you need. From destination descriptions and accommodation listings to advice on vehicle prep, road conditions and more. Get it in a bundle with the Tracks4Africa Namibia Traveller’s Paper Map and save.