I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit two bucket-list destinations in Botswana: the Makgadikgadi Pans and Elephant Sands. But the trip with the Landcruiser Club Botswana was about more than just breathtaking scenes. By Aslam Mxolisi Tawana of Black Boy Adventures

It was with a keen sense of anticipation that I pointed my rig, Musafir, in the direction of the Botswana border and onwards to Gaborone. Every year, the Landcruiser Club Botswana (LCB) organises various trips to some of the country’s iconic wilderness destinations and combines this with humanitarian work. As a member of the club, I joined the LCB on a trip to Dukwi, a village some 550km northeast of Gaborone. With the Makgadikgadi Pans on the village’s doorstep and Elephant Sands 60km away, Dukwi was a good base camp for seeing these iconic sites.

We set up camp at Mowana Truck Inn and Campsite , a recently established campsite named after the large baobab in the grounds. Located just outside Dukwi, Mowana is also an ideal gateway to Kukonje Island in the Makgadikgadi. The LCB’s secretary-general, Mishingo Jeremia, had recommended we visit Kukonje rather than the better-known Kubu (Lekhubu) Island. Not many people know about Kukonje, which is situated across the pans from Kubu. In fact, we were the only people there during our visit.

In awe of the Makgadikgadi Pans

To reach Kukonje Island, we had to get our tyres dirty. At the veterinary checkpoint just beyond Dukwi Village, we turned onto the cutline and followed it in a south-easterly direction. Our route led through two dry riverbeds: the Mosetse and Lepashe are ephemeral rivers that flow only during the rainy season. In both cases, the riverbank down to the dry riverbed was quite steep, so I engaged 4×4 low range and made my way through in first and second gear. I deflated my tyres to 1.8 bar to deal with the soft river sand and immediately found the driving more comfortable. 

I had expected the Makgadikgadi Pans to be an impressive sight, but the reality exceeded my expectations. Before the visit I knew that the Makgadikgadi counted among the biggest salt pans in the world, but seeing it for myself … This landscape is so vast and expansive, it is Verneukpan times 20! It is mind-boggling to think that this area was once a huge lake. Today, the barren moon landscape stretches as far as the eye can see. We spent all afternoon there, setting up a braai at Kukonje Island and watching the sunset.

About tracks and traces

The temptation was there to play a bit – to leave the track and drive on the pans. With the wisdom of someone looking back, I now know that this wasn’t a good idea. Firstly, driving off the established track causes damage to the surrounding area. I have subsequently had a long chat to Johann Groenewald, owner of Tracks4Africa, about the importance of staying on the track. I’ve learned through this process and know to do better in future. 

Secondly, while the flaky white pans may look bone dry, appearances can be misleading. In many places it is actually just a crust, with thick mud below the surface. A few members of our party ventured off the track and some got bogged down in the mud. Fortunately, between us we had the necessary knowledge and recovery gear to get them out.

Tracks4Africa says: When overlanders veer off the designated track, the result is a myriad of alternative tracks. This track pollution can be clearly seen from an aeroplane and can take hundreds of years to fully disappear. Indiscriminate tracks can also land other overlanders in trouble if they follow one of the erroneous tracks rather than the designated route. Responsible travellers stick to existing tracks to prevent track pollution. Using a routable electronic map is an environmentally friendly option that enables you to stick to the right track.

Incredible close-up sightings

Like the Makgadikgadi, Elephant Sands was another place on my bucket list. From pictures and videos on social media, I knew that I’d be able to see elephants up close, much closer than in the bush. Contrary to what you might think, Elephant Sands isn’t a fenced off reserve. It is an open wilderness area with a waterhole that draws elephants around the clock.

We spent the whole day there, from 11:00 until 17:00, and throughout we had elephants at the waterhole. From small babies to big bulls came to drink and it was a delight to watch them. You’d be excused for thinking these elephants are trained since it almost seems as if they pose for the camera. But you’d be wise to remember that they are wild animals. 

The thing that struck me most was their calm demeanour. The elephants walked right into our midst without making any noise. It was special to see them just 5m away and to witness their behaviour. You can see that they are sociable animals in the way the herds relate to each other. It made a big impression on me. 

The chance to make an impact

While visiting these places in Botswana was a dream come true, it was also incredibly meaningful to go to Dukwi and give back to the community. Today Dukwi is the location of a refugee camp where people from as far afield as Eritrea and the DRC find safety. In the 1970s and ’80s, the camp was home to exiles from South Africa – leaders in the Struggle. Through sponsorships and personal donations, the LCB provided welcome essentials like toiletries to learners of Dukwi Junior Secondary School. The club also donated full kit to boys of the soccer club.

Every trip with the LCB is enjoyable because of the personal connections made. I enjoy the bond between members and the camaraderie. There’s an opportunity to share skills and help others get the most from overlanding. I am already looking forward to the next trip.

Travel tips

• Always pack a jack and sufficient recovery gear like ropes and shackles. You never know when you will need it.
• A compressor is very useful for managing tyre pressure. As soon as you leave the tar, you should deflate your tyres. This will make for a more comfortable trip. 
• You must have a medical kit on a remote trip such as this. When you’re in the bush and working with mechanical parts, things can easily go wrong.
• Our route led through two veterinary checkpoints: on the A1 north from Francistown, and again outside Dukwi, on the A33. Vet fences, like the Dukwi veterinary control gate, restrict the movement of raw meat and animal products from north to south (and east to west) in Botswana. That meant we could take meat on our trip, but couldn’t return with it. 
• We stocked up at the Choppies Superstore in Gaborone, which carries halaal meat. I was impressed that the shop only closes at 22:00. Gaborone was also where I filled up Musafir’s two 80-litre tanks. Nata was a good place to refuel our vehicles and ourselves before the return journey.

The Tracks4Africa Botswana Self-Drive Guide makes planning your Botswana adventure easier than ever. It’s packed with everything you need to know before you hit the road on an overlanding expedition. Find out what to see and do, where to sleep and where to refuel and stock up on supplies. Along with destination descriptions and accommodation listings, the guide contains practical information on vehicle prep, vet fences, border post red tape and more. There’s a detailed atlas section as well as table of distance that shows travel times between towns.