What does it take to drive Van Zyl’s Pass, Namibia’s toughest route? We asked Tracks4Africa users Rod Williams and Siobhan Hanvey to share their experience of doing the pass – on their own.

For Rod, Van Zyl’s Pass was a bucket-list item from the moment they bought their Land Cruiser 200 and decided to start overlanding seriously. It was a dream born during the Covid-19 lockdown period. Some people baked bread, some redecorated; Rod started watching overlanding videos. “When he saw Van Zyl’s Pass, he said, ‘Right, that’s it, we’re going’,” recalls his wife, Siobhan. “And with every single video I watched, my trepidation grew.”

Van Zyl’s Pass in Namibia’s Kaokoland region is not a challenge to be taken lightly. The pass may be only 15km, but it can take the better part of a day to navigate safely. That’s because it makes its way across a rock-strewn track that is steeply cambered in places. The route winds past massive boulders and sheer drop-offs, where the wrecks of unlucky vehicles litter the slopes.

Siobhan knew that Rod was up to the task – he’d done a fair bit of gravel travel in his past. But Van Zyl’s Pass requires a lot of input from the navigator/spotter to guide the driver safely through. What’s more, the couple would be doing it on their own in an area without cellphone reception. A vehicle-destroying pass, a husband and wife combination, a truly remote location… What could possibly go wrong?

A Namibian adventure

When the couple set off for Namibia in May 2024, they still weren’t certain if they were going to do Van Zyl’s Pass or not. First they were going to explore the country, gradually making their way north. If things were going smoothly and they felt like it, then the pass would be on the cards.

“We did a guided tour all the way up the Skeleton Coast and we had a grand time in the dunes. Some of the people who were on our tour had done the pass, which convinced us to give it a go,” Rod and Siobhan say.

In preparation, the couple had watched several YouTube videos of other overlanders tackling Van Zyl’s. They were equipped with walkie talkies so they could communicate. And, as always, they were travelling with two spare tyres and other essential spare parts. Vitally, they had a Garmin inReach device, a compact satellite communicator that would enable them to call for help even in the back of beyond. “We were confident that if we got stuck, we could press the button and someone would come to help us.” 

The start of the pass

The night before was spent at Van Zyl’s Pass Community Camp. Situated in a dry riverbed, with massive camel thorn trees offering shade, the campsite is a peaceful spot. “You feel like you’re alone in the universe, it’s so relaxing,” says Siobhan. When they were there, there was no water to be had. But since they always travel with enough water for 2-3 days, it wasn’t a problem. 

The next morning, they launched their Van Zyl’s Pass solo campaign. The beginning wasn’t too difficult, although Siobhan did get out to direct the vehicle in sections with lots of rocks. “Then as we went on, we found some places where the road was so damaged that we actually had to get out and rebuild it,” says Rod. Gloves came in handy for wrestling rocks into place.

The initial section gave them the chance to finetune their approach. After experimenting with the walkie talkies, they decided to stick to hand signals. “It’s challenging enough to keep left and right straight without having to deal with another thing. So we just agreed what our signals were and that worked for us,” says Siobhan.

Slowly and steadily they made their way along the pass. Siobhan would carefully guide Rod over the rough terrain. On Van Zyl’s, it might be tempting to try and avoid large rocks, but the best approach is usually straight over. When you try and steer around, there’s the risk of the tyre’s thinner sidewall pushing up against a sharp-edged stone. Whereas the sidewall is only a few millimetres thick, the tread is far more substantial and meant to handle rough surfaces. 

A slow descent

The further along they went, the more they realised why Van Zyl’s Pass is the stuff of legends. It’s not just the technical challenge that appeals to overlanders. It’s experiencing a sense of solitude in a wild and beautiful place. 

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“We saw no other vehicles on the pass that day. We only encountered a person walking, two locals on donkeys and some kids tending their flock (near the end). For people who want to get off the beaten track, it’s the place to go. What surprised us was the beauty of the scenery,” says Siobhan.

Because the couple had watched several videos, they had a good idea of what the major challenges were. The steep downhill after the viewpoint was the main one. On images it looks more like a scree slope than a track. “So we got out of the car and walked that section first to take a good look at it. We checked out the obstacles and where there might be problems, then decided what our approach would be,” says Rod. “It was a very slow descent.”

At one point, the 3t vehicle was precariously poised with one wheel in the air. Siobhan admits that was nerve wracking. “Rod couldn’t see because he was driving, but I was properly spooked!” On their YouTube channel, Wilddog Africa Overland, the couple share a video that shows both perspectives. It’s fascinating to see the different points of view of the driver and the spotter on this particularly steep section of Van Zyl’s Pass.

All in all, it took them about half an hour to get down the steep downhill and six hours in total to do the pass. 

Into the Marienfluss

At the bottom of the pass, the couple literally jumped for joy. They had successfully seen off Van Zyl’s Pass, but even better was what was to follow. The Marienfluss is a beautiful grass valley surrounded by mountains. From the foot of Van Zyl’s, their route led through stunning scenery to Marble Mine Community Camp. They were delighted to discover that Marble Mine used to be the home of the artist who had created Kaokoland’s Lone Men, sculptures made from stone.

“You can see a million pictures of them, but until you’re standing in front of one, you don’t appreciate the brilliance of the artist. With nothing more than some rocks and a few pieces of metal, he gives every stone man personality. The imagination of the artist is incredible,” says Siobhan. 

There are reportedly 30 of these mysterious stone men dotted around Kaokoland. Each of the sculptures has a number and a message, and the intrepid overlander could spend weeks searching them out. Rod and Siobhan were pleased to spot two of them on their turn through the Marienfluss. With camera cards full to bursting and their own memory banks topped up with incredible sights, they agree Van Zyl’s Pass was worth the effort.  

Tips for tackling Van Zyl’s

• Van Zyl’s Pass is driven from east to west only as the alternative, driving uphill, is considered too dangerous. It can only be done in a vehicle with low-range 4WD.
• Do your homework before going and be realistic about the level of challenge. This route is for experienced 4×4 overlanders. Have enough water and food with you to outlast a recovery situation.
• The track of the pass constantly changes because of washaways and road building. Overlanders are forever moving rocks to suit the line they want to take. So get out, walk around and get a good look.
• The driver and spotter must together agree on what the approach will be. The spotter is responsible for telling the driver exactly where to put the wheels.
• On Van Zyl’s Pass, the track surface is a mixture of loose rocks and stones. When sand gets into the mix, your wheels can slide. It’s important to go slowly.
• Travel with spare parts, a replacement tyre and the necessary kit to do bush mechanics. 
• If travelling as a solo vehicle, make sure someone knows you are doing the pass. Rod and Siobhan used their Garmin inReach device to stay in touch with family. 
• They say you drive Van Zyl’s pass only to be able to say that you have done it!  Do not let your ego make you do stupid things.

Tracks4Africa says: Plan to stay over at the Van Zyl’s Pass Community Camp. The roads approaching Otjitanda, where you turn off to reach Van Zyl’s and the camp, are in a similar state to the pass. If you get to Otjitanda and feel comfortable with the level of challenge, continue on to Van Zyl’s Pass. If not, head south and approach the Marienfluss via Orupembe.