The Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area is rich in stories and wild, rugged areas. This kloof has so much to offer, including challenging mountain passes. But most of all, it will give you a sense of peace and a place to breathe. By Marié Bester

We’d spent some days exploring the more developed western section of the Baviaanskloof. To make the most of our day in the Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area, we set off early from Zandvlakte, not far from the West Gate. The last bit of decent gravel road was covered in just a few kilometres. 

Also read: Baviaanskloof: Serenity and stories in the western section

At the entrance gate, you’ll be briefed on the water levels of the river crossings and get warnings about dangerous animals, keeping a slow pace and staying on track. Strict check-in and check-out procedures apply for day trips through the reserve since many vehicles run into trouble and need assistance. The entrance fee is paid in cash and a Wild Card does not apply. We were glad to hear: “Oh, you drive a Jimny? They’ve never gotten into trouble in the reserve.” (No pressure!)

The kloof’s river crossings

The river crossings are beautiful and plentiful, ranging from crystal clear water over a somewhat rocky riverbed to heavily silted rivers. From the get-go you’ll find your first: a fairly shallow crossing with invitingly cool water. As the co-driver, I decided I “had” to walk through the crossings first. This was to see what the track bed was like and for photo opportunities, but mostly to cool down! Well, that lasted only for the first few crossings before we came across a fairly long, dark silted patch. I nearly lost my flipflops in the squelching mud and, to spare my ego from a full-on face plant, I hopped in the Jimny again. 

Driving through the reserve, you will realise this is not the place for a brand-new 4×4. Your car will get scratched by the ever-inclosing shrubbery along the rivers. Not to mention the thorn trees lining the sandy tracks nor a sudden deep hole at the edge of the cement tracks through the river crossings. Baviaanskloof is rugged and wild, a place where nature takes her own course. With the dense vegetation and rocky outcrops, it’s difficult to spot animals. When we passed through, it was during the heat of the day and we saw just a lonely eland, some baboons and a few Verreaux’s eagles. Yet, a couple who also stayed at Zandvlakte, passed through a few days earlier during the afternoon and saw buffalo, kudu, eland and smaller animals. 

Grasnek Pass: Don’t look down!

There are three major passes that you need to traverse in the Wilderness Area: Grasnek Pass, Holgat Pass and Combrink’s Pass. Of the three, Holgat Pass is in the worst condition and Grasnek Pass has the best views.  

Travelling from west to east, the first pass you must cross is Grasnek. As you get closer, the terrain changes from a semi-decent gravel road to a narrower jeep track with large potholes and washouts. You’ll also find more loose gravel and sharper corners. This pass is still fairly wide and you can manoeuvre your way past oncoming traffic. The ascent isn’t too steep and you rise gradually to the top of the pass. However, if you have a fear of heights, don’t sit on the passenger’s side. As you near the top of the pass, the road edges its way along a steep gorge with the passenger’s side feeling very close to the edge! Here, you will also find a few tight turns that might be a bit narrow for the average level of comfort. 

Where to unwind

Before you make your way down again, stop at the viewpoint and take in what lies ahead: A beautiful green valley with a single white road snaking its way deep down into the belly of the wilderness. The way down is a much more pleasant drive, with wider sections giving traffic from both sides some breathing space, fewer potholes and an overall smoother ride. Once you’re at the end of the pass, take a breather and a dip in one of the streams. We spotted some wonderful swimming holes on the way to the picnic area. 

Smitskraal is an official picnic area with braai facilities, treelined spots and a long-drop toilet. But, keep in mind – you are still in a reserve with buffalo and other wild animals. 

After you’ve had lunch at Smitskraal, you’ll come across the longest water crossing. It starts off shallow and rocky, but you’ll quickly move through deeper areas with vegetation on both sides, making this a narrow and mostly single track. Also keep a lookout for deep holes at the edges of the cement tracks underwater. 

If you’re camping within the Wilderness Area, your first option for a campsite will be shortly after the long water crossing: Rooihoek Campsite. This campsite, as well as the Doodsklip Campsite further along the road, should be booked via Eastern Cape Tourism. 

Holgat Pass: Nerves of steel

The next pass to conquer is Holgat Pass. This one is rough! Take out your dentures, fasten that seatbelt and ensure your assets are well supported. Dongas are forming in the road due to washouts. The cement tracks used in an attempt to stabilise the road surface are crumbling and breaking away. Potholes and large rocks are found sticking out where the sand has been washed away. The steep, mostly single track Holgat Pass is the one pass you do not want to get a breakdown, or end up behind one, as there is no space to pass anyone. Oncoming traffic will have to wait. This pass is also the reason why pulling a trailer is not a good idea. We saw a motorbike trailer bump along behind a Land Cruiser and were glad we’d decided not to bring our Venter. 

At the top of Holgat Pass, you’ll find an information board on your right, with a view point. But something far more interesting waits on the other side of the road: Winston le Roux’s cableway. A small trail opposite the information board will lead you to the edge of the mountain… and Winston le Roux’s cableway, still stretching to the other side of the gorge. This cableway was built by him in 1967 to reduce the 3.5 hour round trip between his farms to a mere 12-minute cable car ride. 

Descending Holgat Pass, you’ve crossed the worst of the worst. The road condition improves exponentially and the views are equally pleasing. 

The way out

But, Combrink’s Pass still awaits. Albeit narrow in certain sections, after Holgat Pass, the road seems almost smooth! Once again, the views on this road do not disappoint as you descend towards the eastern edge of the reserve.

The only thing between you and the East Gate, is Poortjies – many shallow river and stream crossings. This area is known to always have water and a wonderful fish and river life (including the endangered redfin minnow that will actually come closer to inspect you). Trees and shrubs tower above the road as a final fanfare before you reach the boundary of the reserve. 

After almost six hours on the road through the ±60km of Wilderness Area, we reached the East Gate of the Baviaanskloof. Here, you hand in your permit to check out and you drive off… a simple farewell to a grand adventure. 

Good to know

• In the Wilderness Area a 4×4 is highly encouraged. Between the eastern gate and Patensie, the gravel road is excellent.
• Day entry fee for the Wilderness Area at the time of writing: R63 pp, cash only. Gates open at 05h00 and close at 16h00.
• The eastern section of the Baviaanskloof lies within the summer rainfall area. Plan accordingly and check with your accommodation about the water levels and road conditions.
• Winston le Roux’s cableway: -33.636210, 24.450587
• Make sure you plan for the unexpected: spare wheel, puncture kit, enough drinking water and food, and first aid kit. 

Let Tracks4Africa maps guide you through the Baviaanskloof. From the Cape to Addo touring map series, Baviaanskloof to Addo (SC7 & SC8) will help you find scenic routes in the area. Get the full Cape to Addo bundle to explore along the south coast of South Africa. The Slingsby Baviaanskloof map offers a detailed look at roads, tracks and hiking trails in the Baviaanskloof Conservation Area.