In Lesotho, rivers are never far from your thoughts and time and again we ended up camping within sight of the water. Even more impressive to see was the feat of engineering that is Katse Dam. By Henk Bogaards

This trip to Lesotho first led from Ficksburg to Semonkong and Maletsunyane Falls (read part 1). Although the scenery in the first stage was spectacular, the real jaw-dropping sights were still to come.

Day 3: Maletsunyane Falls to close to Katse Dam 

We woke up to breathtaking views over Maletsunyane Falls at sunrise. This truly was a special campsite – one of those rare places that makes you stop and appreciate the silence and beauty of nature.

The plan for today was to drive to another campsite near Katse Dam. First on the agenda: finding fuel. Unfortunately, the fuel station in Semonkong had no fuel – neither diesel nor petrol. We decided to drive to Ramabanta in search of fuel.

To get there, we had to retrace our route along the thrilling mountain pass. We enjoyed the drive just as much as the first time, although this time we were a bit lighter on the accelerator to conserve fuel.

At Ramabanta, we found a brand-new filling station, but there was a problem. They only had petrol. Great news for Douw, but not for the rest of us. A quick GPS search pointed us toward Roma, where we hoped to find diesel.

The drive to Roma took us through some magical scenery, winding through sandstone mountains that looked like they belonged in a fantasy novel. The first fuel station we found in Roma was closed, but fortunately, another one wasn’t far, and there we could finally fill our tanks with diesel.

Down by the river

With full tanks, we left Roma and turned toward Katse Dam. The views along this stretch were nothing short of spectacular. The mountain passes here make even the most dramatic roads in South Africa seem tame by comparison.

In the distance, we caught sight of Mohale Dam, a vital part of the Lesotho Highlands Water Project. Mohale Dam is the second-largest dam in Lesotho and plays a critical role in transferring water to South Africa via a series of tunnels and reservoirs. The dam also generates hydroelectric power, helping to supply electricity to local communities.

We stopped for lunch at a bridge crossing the Senqunyane River. Unintentionally, the rivers of Lesotho had become the theme of our trip – each one marking a new chapter in our journey.

Not far from Thaba-Tseka, we turned off onto a gravel road. We had been under the impression that this would be a decent road. We were wrong. It turned out to be one of the worst gravel roads we’ve ever driven. It wasn’t the usual corrugations – it was the deep holes and ditches that violently shook our vehicles. Our suspensions were pushed to their limits. At one point, we had to stop just to give ourselves (and the vehicles) a break from the constant jarring.

Eventually, we reached our campsite for the evening, next to the Malabatse River, one of the many rivers that feed into Katse Dam. The dam wall lay just around a bend in the river. It was another memorable evening around the campfire – we were tired, dusty, but deeply content.

Day 4: Exploring Katse Dam and surroundings

We woke up next to the Malabatse River excited about the day ahead as we were looking forward to exploring the area around Katse Dam. We packed up camp since we were not 100% sure if we would use the same campsite again that evening. Ryan had a campsite in mind with a view over the dam.

So the first stop of the day was this site, which offers a panoramic vista of Katse Dam. After giving it some thought we decided we would camp there that night. Decision made, we got back in our vehicles and headed toward the dam wall.

Not just any dam wall

At the check point before you can drive over the wall we asked if they had a tour of the dam wall that day. It was confirmed and we decided that we had to do it. Driving over the dam wall was an experience. The fact that it is a double lane road gives you a good indication of how big it is. After crossing the wall, we parked our vehicles and then explored the dam wall on foot. It is hard to capture the sheer size of the wall with a camera, it is something you have to experience for yourself.  

At R30 per person the tour of the dam wall is almost a steal. It starts off with an information session, sharing facts about the dam wall, followed by a tour of the structure. We followed the guide and drove down to the bottom of the dam wall, where its sheer size becomes really evident. We then walked into the wall where they showed us where they take measurements of the wall. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to take pictures inside the wall.

After the tour we headed to the Katse Dam botanical garden in Katse, where they showed us the national plant, the spiral aloe. The garden has its origins in the building of the dam: it was created to save examples of plants that are now under water. You can even buy plants to take with you. The visit to the botanical garden is included in the cost of the dam wall tour.

A spectacular sunset

From the garden we wanted to see if we could get to the outlet of the tunnel that feeds water from Mohale Dam into Katse Dam. We unfortunately could not really get close as the road is blocked. However, we did drive over a lovely bridge at Katse Dam.

By then it was time to drive to our campsite and set up camp. We were in for a spectacular sunset and we took some time just to sit and take it all in. As we were enjoying the view over the dam, we could actually see how the wind was picking up. The wind blew over the dam, creating ripples on the water. When the sun disappeared behind the mountains, we gathered around the campfire. It was amazing that we were camping next to a public road yet we never felt unsafe in Lesotho. It was the perfect end to an exciting day.

Day 5: Katse Dam to the Maloraneng campsite 

I took full advantage of the setting and had a shower overlooking the water. It was a first for me, and definitely one to remember. Once we’d packed up camp, we were ready to hit the road for the day. Our destination was the Maloraneng (also known as Mapoko) campsite near the Letseng Diamond Mine.

We left Katse Dam behind and drove in the direction of Mokhotlong. At one point, we turned onto a brand-new tar road that had been a rugged 4×4 track just five years ago. Now it’s a beautifully surfaced route, proof of how Lesotho continues to invest in developing its infrastructure. This road wound through spectacular mountain scenery and was a pleasure to drive.

As we approached Mokhotlong, we skipped the turnoff to the Letseng Mine. Since we’d made good time and it was still early in the day, we decided to continue onward to Afriski Mountain Resort for lunch.

Afriski is Lesotho’s only ski resort and one of just a handful in Southern Africa. Perched at an altitude of over 3,000m, it transforms into a winter wonderland from June to August, attracting skiers and snowboarders from across the region. In summer, it offers mountain biking, hiking and high-altitude adventure. Because it was May, there was no snow yet, and we had the restaurant almost entirely to ourselves. We treated ourselves to some delicious burgers while taking in the crisp mountain air and incredible views across the Maluti Mountains.

Camping at the foot of the mountains

After lunch, we headed back towards the Letseng Mine. We were preparing for a bit of 4×4 driving for the rest of the afternoon to reach the Maloraneng campsite. To our surprise, the steep track down to the village near the campsite had been freshly graded, making the descent much easier than anticipated. As a result, we arrived at camp earlier than expected so could set up camp in daylight and dry out our tents in the afternoon sun.

The views around this campsite are simply stunning. This was my second time camping here, and I can wholeheartedly recommend it.

That evening, under a sky full of stars, we gathered around the fire to prepare a delicious butter chicken dinner. It was our last night in Lesotho and our final bush campsite of the trip. It was a fitting end to an incredible journey, surrounded by the tranquil sounds of the river and the towering mountains beyond.

Day 6: Driving down Sani Pass

We woke with a mix of emotions: excitement for the day ahead, but also sadness at the thought of leaving this incredible country behind. Once we’d packed up camp, it was time for the first adventure of the day: crossing the Khubelu River. Thankfully, the water level was low, and it wasn’t a difficult crossing, but driving through a river always adds a little thrill to the morning. All four vehicles splashed through without incident.

The drive out of the valley proved a bit more challenging than the way in. The exit route follows a different track that requires a high-clearance vehicle with low-range gearing. As always in Lesotho, the scenery was absolutely spectacular: towering mountains, endless views and quiet villages tucked into the hillsides.

Somewhere along the river, we even solved an age-old mathematical problem: we found X! Someone had painted a large white “X” on a rock right next to the Khubelu River. We’re still not sure what it meant, but it made for a good laugh.

After crossing the river a second time, we climbed out of the valley and rejoined the tar road. You might wonder how a tar road can be exciting. This stretch became particularly interesting when we reached the enormous new bridge being built over the Senqu River. The Senqu is one of Lesotho’s most important rivers, eventually becoming South Africa’s mighty Orange River. The bridge itself is an impressive feat of engineering, spanning the wide valley with massive concrete pillars that made our vehicles look like toy cars in comparison. 

Ending on a high

Originally, we’d planned to drive closer to the source of the Senqu River, which begins high in the Maluti Mountains. However, with limited time and rough road conditions, we decided instead to press on to Sani Pass.

Before tackling the descent, we stopped at the Sani Mountain Lodge, home to the highest pub in Africa at 2,874 metres above sea level. There, we enjoyed a warm meal and something cold to drink while taking in the sweeping views over Lesotho and the Drakensberg escarpment.

Finally, it was time to leave Lesotho behind. After completing the border formalities, we began the descent down Sani Pass itself, a must-do experience for any overlander. The pass is steeped in history. Originally a mule trail linking Natal and Basutoland, Sani Pass officially opened to vehicles in 1955. Today, it’s still unpaved, winding down nearly 1,000m vertically in less than 9km. The series of tight switchbacks, loose gravel and steep drop-offs makes it both beautiful and exhilarating.

I’ve driven Sani Pass both up and down in the past, and it never disappoints. If you haven’t yet tackled it, you should definitely add it to your bucket list. It isn’t extremely technical, but it offers a true sense of 4×4 adventure. We found that descending in 2nd gear low-range was ideal, keeping a steady, controlled pace without overusing the brakes.

Driving down the final switchbacks gave us time to reflect on what had been a memorable journey through Lesotho. So many great memories were made, and we’ll definitely be back to explore even more of this remarkable mountain kingdom.

For maps that reflect the reality on the ground, get the Lesotho Garmin GPS Map or South Africa Traveller’s Paper Map (which includes Lesotho). Plan your own route using the Tracks4Africa Online Trip Planner, then sync your route to the Tracks4Africa Guide App. The app is like carrying a paper map and guide book combo in your pocket. It uses your phone’s GPS to show where you are on the map so you can follow your route. 

 About the overlanders

The convoy exploring Lesotho was made up of four vehicles:

Henk Bogaards: Behind the wheel of the GD6 Fortuner, kitted with upgrades ready for the highlands. The planner and storyteller, ever-ready with the camera to capture the magic of Lesotho. Watch Rivers of Lesotho ep.2.

Ryan Otto: Driving his GD6 Hilux, the man behind the idea for this specific route, which turned the trip into a bigger, more adventurous expedition.

Dwayne Russell: In his trusty D4D Fortuner, always up for a challenge and quick with a helping hand when needed.

Douw & Marike Coetzee: Piloting the Nissan GU Patrol and bringing calm energy, good humour, and plenty of bush knowledge to the group.